Herbal extracts and fragrances used in cosmetics. Quality control issues

 Anthocyanins or anthocyanins

• Glycosides, i.e. they consist of sugar parts derived most often from glucose, and less often from galactose, xylose,
• - water-soluble dyes found primarily in flowers
•   Depending on the pH of the cell sap and the presence of inorganic ions in the cell, they can range in color from red to violet. For example, cyanidin gives the rose a red color and the cornflower blue.
•   for pH below 7 (acidic) - red,
•   in neutral or alkaline pH (pH > 7) they are blue or violet.
• They occur widely throughout the plant world, most often in fruits, flowers, and leaves,
•   they were not found only in algae and in cactus and quinoa plant families (beetroot, spinach). These families have their own distinct group of dyes called betanins,
•   chokeberry fruits contain the most anthocyanins,
•   which are compounds of very low toxicity,
•   reduce the fragility of capillaries and improve the quality of vision by increasing the blood supply to the eye and stimulating the production of rhodopsin, which is important in the process of vision
• They exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects Red wine anthocyanins are associated with a low incidence of heart attack.

R1                 R2                  Name                       Occurrence

-OH             -OH              delphinidin               grapes, blueberries, elderberries, cranberries

-OH          -H              cyanide                chokeberry, cherries, red cabbage, cranberry

-H             -H             pelargonidin         geranium, strawberry

-OCH3      -H             peonidin               elderberry, peony

-OCH3      -OH          petunidin            petunia

-OCH3     -OCH3     malvidin                grapes, hollyhock

Escin

• anti-inflammatory drug,
•   relieves pain,
•   reduces swelling
•   improves blood flow,
•   restores elasticity and proper tension of blood vessels
•   increases tissue oxygenation,
•   accelerates the dissolution of blood clots in the subcutaneous layers of tissues.

Flavonoids

• plant active substances with antioxidant properties (antioxidants)
•   in the human body, they play a role similar to vitamins
•   occur in vegetables and fruits (most of them are found in dark fruits from the berry group)
•   a group of organic chemical compounds that act as dyes, antioxidants and natural insecticides, and fungicides that protect against attack by insects and fungi. Most of them are dyes accumulated in the surface layers of plant tissues, giving an intense color and limiting the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation
• They are based on a 2-phenyl chroman backbone,
•   flavonoids differ in the number and type of substituents, and the differences between the compounds in individual classes are usually due to the different structures of only one extreme ring
•   most flavonoids contain hydroxyl groups, one or more of which are usually linked to a sugar molecule to form glycosides
• The healing effect of some herbs is conditioned by the presence of appropriate flavonoids in them
•   flavonoids have, among others, the following effects:
• antioxidant conditioned by the ability to inhibit the activity of lipoxygenases and cyclooxygenases and the ability to chelate transition metal ions (e.g. iron), which participate in reactions leading to the production of reactive oxygen species
• anti-inflammatory due to the ability to inhibit the cascade of arachidonic acid transformations leading to the formation of pro-inflammatory prostaglandins
• Seals the blood vessels by inhibiting the activity of proteolytic enzymes, which leads to the strengthening of the connective tissue in the endothelium of the vessels, increasing their flexibility and sealing the walls.
• spasmolytic - flavonoids inhibit cAMP phosphodiesterase, which causes relaxation of the smooth muscles of blood vessels, digestive tract, urinary and bile ducts
• diuretic by irritating the renal tubules and hindering renal reabsorption

Flavonoids are natural compounds, colloquially referred to as "vitamin P" - they have a wide spectrum of action, thanks to which they have become the number one cosmetic ingredient - they are used as a natural sunscreen because they have the ability to absorb UVA and UVB rays - they are an irreplaceable ingredient in cosmetics for skin with vascular problems because they increase the resistance of capillary walls - they reduce their permeability, fragility, and brittleness They restore their elasticity, thus preventing their expansion and cracking - they have anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects on the skin, especially when are used together with Vit. C, the action of which they prolong - a large role is attributed to them in removing excess free radicals, which consequently delays the aging process of the skin.

Carotenoids

• - unsaturated hydrocarbons with a special structure
• - yellow, red and orange plant dyes,
•    found in chloroplasts and chromophores
• - a characteristic feature of carotenoids is the presence of two cyclohexyl rings connected by a long carbon chain, in which there is a system of conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds
• - about 800 carotenoids have been identified and described so far
• - play an auxiliary role in the photosynthesis process (they absorb certain ranges of light radiation (blue, violet) to then transfer the energy of the excited state to the chlorophyll molecule)
• have a protective function against photooxidation processes, to which unsaturated fatty acids of chloroplast lipids are exposed
•   their color in leaves is masked by the green color of chlorophyll pigments, it is only visible in autumn, when chlorophylls are degraded by enzymes
•   an example of a carotenoid is β-carotene
•   carotenoids also give color to other parts of the plant, such as the carrot root
•   are present in the cell in much lower concentrations than chlorophylls
• they do not dissolve in water
•   they are photolabile - they undergo transformations in the presence of light - they play a protective role against damage to the photosystem caused by the excess of incoming light energy, absorbing it and causing it to scatter or redirecting it to other physiological processes in the cell
•   are natural antioxidants
•   are precursors of vitamin A (the main dietary source of this vitamin in humans)
•   protect against reactive oxygen species generated during photosynthesis

Micronutrients

• biogenic elements present in the body in trace amounts, but necessary for proper development
•   these include: copper, iron, iodine, fluorine, zinc, manganese, molybdenum, cobalt, selenium, boron

Copper

• is part of the enzymes involved in the production of hemoglobin and chlorophyll,
• - its deficiency leads to anemia in animals and humans, as well as dying off the ends of shoots and chlorosis in plants (a phenomenon consisting in the underdevelopment or disappearance of chlorophyll, manifested by yellowish or white spots on the leaves)

Iron

• it is part of redox enzymes, hemoglobin, and myoglobin
•   deficiency in plants is manifested by chlorosis, and in animals and humans - anemia

Iodine

• it is necessary for the synthesis of thyroid hormones
• - its deficiency leads to hypothyroidism

Fluorine
- is necessary for the development of tooth enamel.

Zinc

• is a component of enzymes,
•   its deficiency is manifested by abnormalities in the epidermis keratosis, dwarfism, underdevelopment of male gonads, falling flower buds in plants, diminution and twisting of leaves
• molybdenum
• - participates in the metabolism of nitrogen compounds, - its deficiency is known only in plants in the form of leaf distortion and tissue necrosis

Cobalt

• is a component of cobalamin, i.e. vitamin B12
•   its deficiency causes anemia,
•   is an activator of many enzymes

Boron

• its role in the body has not yet been fully elucidated
•   its deficiency leads to the death of the growth cone and the inability to produce seeds in plants

Unsaturated fatty acids

• contain at least one double bond
•   they are usually colorless liquids
• monounsaturated (monogenic) acids, containing one double bond:
• palmitoleic acid (16C), oleic acid (18C),
•  unsaturated (dianoetic) acids containing 2 double bonds:
• linoleic acid (18C)
•  tri unsaturated (trienoic) acids, containing 3 double bonds:
• α-linolenic acid (18C),
•  tetra unsaturated (tetradic) acids, containing 4 double bonds:
• arachidonic acid (20C)
• the human body obtains fatty acids as a result of the decomposition of vegetable fats
•   the human body also has the ability to process and produce most of the fatty acids for its own needs
•   there are two fatty acids that are supplied only from the outside and the human body cannot produce them. These are: linoleic acid and linolenic acid
•   are found in the structures of the skin.

  A very important problem is to stop the drying process of the skin. Responsible for water loss are: sebum, i.e. human tallow, and intercellular cement. Intercellular cement plays a special role in regulating TEWL. Cement is made of ceramides. Unsaturated fatty acids are present in the intercellular cement, they are partly part of the ceramide structures

• are present in sebum (human sebum) regulating its composition.
•   sebum with the correct composition flows freely from the glands
•   EFA deficiency in sebum leads to many complications and diseases
•   too thick sebum can clog the glands and hair follicles
•   acnes bacteria responsible for acne can develop in a clogged follicle
•   abnormal sebum composition increases transepidermal water loss
•   incorrect composition can also irritate the epidermis, leading to its thickening and impaired proper functioning
• they are the beginning of a chain of important processes in the human body, including the skin
•   the human body produces a number of compounds from EFAs
•   are precursors of compounds called eicosanoids
•   Eicosanoids are responsible for the course of inflammatory processes in the skin
•   in the process of desaturation, gamma-linolenic acid is produced from linoleic acid, which is the precursor of the prostaglandin hormone
•   Prostaglandins are responsible e.g. for structure, metabolism, and cell growth.
•   with age, the human body's ability to produce gamma-linolenic acid decreases

EFA sources

• should be taken with food and applied directly to the skin
•     the source of EFAs are: argan oil, avocado oil, hemp oil, apricot kernel oil, hazelnut oil
•     Evening primrose oil and borage oil are particularly rich source of EFAs.
•    pills with unsaturated fatty acids

Plant extracts

Algae

•   is the general name of a huge group of mostly self-feeding aquatic organisms of very different sizes: from a few millimeters to several meters (kelp)
•   different varieties of algae are cultivated or extracted from the seabed, especially around Brittany
•   they are also increasingly obtained by biotechnological methods
•   the chemical composition of individual species of algae is different and not fully investigated.
•   these organisms contain relatively large amounts of proteins, carbohydrates (mainly polysaccharides), vitamins, and trace elements
•   they may also contain chlorophyll or another dye that gives them their characteristic color (green, red, or brown)
• micronutrients present in various types of algae are mainly bromine, zinc, iodine, calcium, iron, copper, magnesium, and manganese
•   thanks to their specific structure, they easily penetrate the stratum corneum barrier, ensuring the proper functioning of the skin
•   they can also be a valuable source of proteins containing such amino acids as alanine, aspargine, glycine, lysine, serine
•   these compounds are present in NMF (natural moisturizing factor), i.e. a natural moisturizing factor, which is a component of the stratum corneum and gives the skin proper hydration
•   algae containing again are particularly important. This compound delays the skin aging process because it reduces the activity of elastase - an enzyme that breaks down elastin. This protein is present in the skin, and it is responsible for its proper functioning, ensuring proper elasticity and smoothness.
• carbohydrates contained in algae have a bacteriostatic effect, regulate the work of sebaceous glands (mannitol, mannitol, sorbitol), moisturize (carrageenan), improve circulation, stimulate metabolism (fluorine, laminarin),
•   mucopolysaccharides (MPS) present in algae, mainly hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, are substances that strongly moisturize the skin
•   algae contain polyphenols with antioxidant, anti-radical and anti-inflammatory properties
•   studies have shown that the algae extract protects human keratinocytes and fibroblasts against the action of free radicals, thus delaying the aging process.
• contain B vitamins (B1, B2, B5, B6, B12), which are involved in the metabolism of fats and proteins,
•   algae have the ability to renew the epidermis
•   the vitamins E and C and ß-carotene contained in them have an anti-radical effect, strengthen the walls of blood vessels, activate the processes taking place in the skin, improve its color
•   algae have to oxygenate and regenerate properties
•   show the ability to tighten the skin, brighten the complexion, soothe irritations
•   in-cosmetics, algae powdered to micron sizes are particularly useful. The micronization process allows the biological energy of algae to be used even more effectively. Thanks to the size of the molecules and the special structure, they have an osmotic effect.
• are one of the ingredients of anti-cellulite preparations
•   increase the physiological metabolic activity of cells
•   alginic acid, present in many algae, stimulates metabolism and contributes to the removal of fat deposits
•   cosmetic preparations containing algae in their composition are also used due to the tissue drainage effect
•   algotherapy gives good results in obesity, stretch marks on the stomach and breasts. Algae are used here in the form of bath liquids and gels as well as body massage preparations
•   micronized sea algae used as 100% sea algae compresses have a slimming and detoxifying effect
• very often green algae are used, which are very well tolerated by the skin
• - red algae extract is used in cosmetics that moisturize, cleanse and soothe the skin, support proper blood circulation, reduce fat in the subcutaneous tissue
• - these products primarily improve the condition of the skin: dehydrated, with acne and hypersensitive
• - red algae extract, rich in elements such as calcium, magnesium, silicon, zinc, also guarantees a healthy appearance of the hair
• preparations containing seaweed extract, rich in active ingredients, soothe skin irritations caused, for example, by sunlight, shaving or depilation
•   the use of this type of cosmetics makes the skin soft and well hydrated. They are especially recommended for sensitive skin
• - preparations with Hawaiian algae extract have a soothing effect, regulate the natural balance, and strengthen the skin's protective barrier. They restore the skin's freshness and natural appearance, without causing irritation

Aloe

• a genus of monocotyledonous leaf succulents
• it has 330–400 species
•   it includes tree and shrub forms, perennials, and sometimes lianas
•   the range of plants of this genus includes the Arabian Peninsula, Africa and Madagascar
•   has branched or unbranched shoots ending in a rosette of fleshy leaves containing yellowish or brownish milky juice
•   the leaves are fleshy, most often with a waxy coating, the edges are thorny, placed in ground rosettes.
•   flowers: long, red, yellow or orange perianth, rich in nectar, collected in a raceme.
• aloe vera leaves are used to obtain the following raw materials: bitter, yellow juice leaking from the leaves after cutting, which after thickening is referred to as - alona, and leaf pulp - aloe vera gel
•   due to the presence of 1,8-dihydroxyanthraquinone derivatives, mainly aloin, alony extract is a component of laxative preparations
•   they are used in constipation, e.g. resulting from dietary errors, gastrointestinal motility disorders, and slimming diets.
• aloe vera gel contains polysaccharides (e.g. glucomannan and its acetyl derivative, glucogalactomannan), oligosaccharides, glycoproteins, phytosterols, macro- and microelements
•   when taken orally, it shows anti-inflammatory activity and increases the number of symbiotic bacteria in the gastrointestinal tract, and also lowers blood sugar levels,
•   acts as an antioxidant, improves the immune system,
•   inhibits the replication of influenza virus, chickenpox,
•   it is also used as a component of dermatological preparations for skin care
•   the polysaccharides present in it trigger immunological reactions within the skin, initiating defensive and regenerating processes.
• aloe vera gel has proven to be effective in the treatment of frostbite, burns, skin psoriasis, as well as skin lesions in patients undergoing radiotherapy
•   In in-cosmetics, aloe vera gel is used due to its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties (both antibacterial against strains, E.coli and antifungal). It is a component of cosmetic preparations for sensitive skin, recommended in various forms of acne, as well as to improve microcirculation within the skin and protect the skin against the harmful effects of UV radiation,
• also for the care of all hair types, preventing dandruff and hair loss
•   Aloe gel is also a component of toothpaste recommended for periodontitis.

Chestnut

• a genus of trees rarely shrubs belonging to the horse chestnut family (Hippocastanaceae)
•   includes about 25 species from South-Eastern Europe, North America, and East Asia. - in Poland, all cultivated species are artificially introduced by man
•   chestnut extract contains a whole range of biologically active compounds, e.g. escin, flavonoids, coumarin compounds, tannins
•   strengthens blood vessels, reduces capillary contractility, has anti-inflammatory and anti-swelling properties, facilitates skin cleansing and makes it dull, protects it from the harmful effects of UV rays
•   used for the care of sensitive skin with broken capillaries or a tendency to break them
•   it is also used in bath preparations, as well as in shampoos and conditioners for oily hair with seborrheic dermatitis

Lime tree

• a type of long-lived tree belonging to the linden family,
•   grow in the temperate zone of the northern hemisphere
•   it includes about 30 species
•   linden extract is rich in tannins, organic acids, vitamin E
•   protects, soothes, and slightly whitens the skin
•   willingly used in creams for sensitive skin, prone to irritation and chapping

Japanese ginkgo (ginkgo biloba)

• is a huge tree that grows up to 40 meters and lives up to 100 years
•   According to the Shinto religion, the sap of this tree gives strength and immortality
•   in the 1980s, ginkgo leaf extracts began to be used in the treatment of circulatory diseases,
•   they reduce the tension of blood vessels, stimulate circulation, and improve blood circulation
•   in-cosmetics, Ginkgo Biloba helps fight cellulite, firms, and tones the skin, soothes dark circles and "bags" under the eyes, prevents the breaking of blood vessels, neutralizes free radicals, inhibits the aging process of the skin

witch hazel

• In its natural state, it grows in the eastern states of the USA and Canada. In Poland, it can be found in parks and gardens
•   it is a shrub or tree characterized by brilliant yellow flowers that appear in late autumn or winter, enlivening its bare, leafless branches. - medicinal and cosmetic raw materials are the bark and leaves
•   Witch hazel is one of the raw materials with a high content of tannins. Most of it is found in the leaves and slightly less in the bark
•   tannins are a mixture, among which ellagitannins and hamamellitans have been identified. There are flavonoids, gallic and ellagic acids, leucoanthocyanidins, and saponins
• The healing properties of witch hazel were known to the Indian tribes living in northeastern North America. It was venerated especially for its astringent effect. It was most often used mixed with linseed for swelling or wounds caused by bumps and tumors

•   in Europe, witch hazel was considered an excellent remedy for burns, swelling, and bleeding
•   currently, witch hazel is considered a powerful astringent, anti-hemorrhagic, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial agent

In cosmetics, the strong astringent effect of witch hazel has been used primarily for the care of contaminated skin with clogged pores

• - witch hazel extracts are included in night and day creams, tonics, and masks
• - witch hazel water is very popular in cosmetics. It is made by steam distillation of fresh, young twigs and witch hazel leaves
•   it is an ingredient of cosmetics intended for oily skin
•   witch hazel extracts are also included in other cosmetics, for example, soaps for the care of allergic and couperose skin
•   anti-inflammatory creams are also produced for the care of sensitive and easily reddening skin
•   are included in firming body lotions

Sage

• -a species of evergreen shrub of the family
•    mint
• - occurs in the wild in Europe, in the region

   Mediterranean

• - cultivated and wild in North America. In Poland, it does not occur in the wild, but it is suitable for cultivation in the garden
• - improves the functioning of the digestive system,
• - lowers blood sugar levels, and sage infusions soothe inflammation
•    throat and skin
• - soothes depression, fatigue, exhaustion,
• - Sage infusion is used for excessive night sweating,
•    especially in tuberculosis and neurotics
• Thanks to its bactericidal properties, sage is also used externally to rinse the mouth, throat, purulent gingivitis, thrush, and angina
•   Sage infusion is also used for compresses for hard-to-heal wounds, and varicose leg ulcers and as a refill for baths in rheumatic diseases, rashes, and other skin diseases
•   cleanses, stimulates tightening, and closes pores

Ginseng

• perennial from the Araliaceae family,
•   growing wild in the forests of East Asia from Nepal to Korea and in the south-eastern areas of Russia
•   it has a fleshy and thick taproot, a stem about 70 cm long, and stem leaves consisting of several leaflets with hairs on the nerves. The flower stalk ends in a canopy with a dozen or so green-and-white flowers. The fruits are berries, drupes of bright red color - the medicinal raw material is the ginseng root or the whole plant plucked out during the flowering period, in the case of industrial extraction of active compounds from it

Ginseng extract protects the body against viruses, bacteria, and inflammation

•   it is especially useful during periods of reduced immunity and to increase vitality in middle and old age
•   it helps to live more intensively, adds energy, increases intellectual and physical abilities as well as resistance to stress
•   lowers the level of glucose in the blood (important in the case of impaired sugar tolerance),
•   reduces overweight, improves the functioning of the immune system,
• In cosmetics, ginseng root extract is used to produce "rejuvenating" skin preparations,
•   it stimulates the renewal of the epidermis, restoring the skin's physiological balance, tones it, and regulates the water and fat balance
•   the properties of ginseng are also used in products preventing baldness and hair loss because it stimulates the hair matrix and improves blood circulation in the skin

Mountain arnica

• a perennial from the Asteraceae family found in 18 species in North America, Europe, and Asia
•   rare in Poland, grows in the Sudetes and Bieszczady Mountains and in the lowlands in the northern part of the country, is under protection
•   has an aromatic smell
•   arnica is an important means of toning blood vessels
•   it has a preventive effect against stroke and is used in its adjuvant treatment, as well as in the treatment of vascular calcification (atherosclerosis)
•   used externally, it is a good remedy for healing wounds, hematomas, bruises, post-traumatic edema, and burns (active compounds prevent plasma from penetrating beyond the venous bed, promote the gradual absorption of exudative fluid, change the pressure outside and inside small subcutaneous vessels),

In the case of an overdose, it can even lead to death, and an overdose in external use can cause severe skin irritation,

  Arnica flowers, stems and roots contain essential oil, flavonoids, phenolic acids, triterpene alcohols, gentian, carotenoids, and tannins. - Mountain arnica extracts are well absorbed through the epidermis, which makes them widely used in the cosmetics industry,

•   as an ingredient of cosmetics for skin with dilated blood vessels, it reaches the capillaries, which strengthens and shrinks, thus reducing skin redness
•   anti-inflammatory and soothing
•   reduces swelling, eliminates dark circles under the eyes (used as an ingredient in eye creams)

aromatherapy

• this term was created by the French chemist Rene-Maurice Gatefosse, a researcher of essential oils,
•   it is a field that is a combination of natural medicine and herbalism
•   consists in introducing biologically active fragrance substances from essential oils of plant origin into the patient's body
•   this is achieved through the respiratory system - inhalations or through the skin - massage, bath or compresses
•   thanks to the antiseptic properties of essential oils used in aromatherapy, it is possible to support antibiotic therapy

Essential oils

• these are volatile oils obtained on an industrial scale from fresh or dried plants
•   in plants, volatile oil is usually found in special secretory cells, where it accumulates as a waste product of metabolism
•   such cells are characteristic of plants rich in volatile oils, such as species from the pine, myrtle, rut, and umbrella families
•   are extremely complicated mixtures of several hundred different chemical compounds with not always completely known content, often impossible to reproduce in laboratory conditions
• have disinfecting properties (especially those containing alkaloids),
•   inhibit the growth of pathogenic microorganisms
•   show strong disinfecting properties of thymol, found in the volatile oil contained in common thyme and sandy thyme
•   the volatile oil found in garlic and onion also has a disinfecting effect
•   they are also used to combat fungal infections, scabies and other skin parasites
•   play an important role in the production of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as ingredients of flavors and aromas
•   they are used to flavor sweets and tobacco products
• can cause local skin irritation, which can sometimes lead to blistering and inflammation
•   in the right doses, however, they cause better blood supply to it
•   some components of volatile oils, such as eugenol, camphor or menthol, relieve pain locally
•   while such as: borneol and camphor strengthen the heart muscle and regulate blood circulation
•   are used in the production of perfumes, although here they are increasingly replaced by synthetic fragrance compounds
•   are components of plants used as spices in the household and in the food industry. They improve the taste of food and stimulate digestion

Examples of essential oils

• basil oil
•   obtained from common basil
•   the highest content of the oil is contained in inflorescences picked first, approx. 0.1-0.3%.

Effect of the oil:

•   stimulating and refreshing, helps in concentration, relieves anxiety and insomnia, analgesic, especially in pain of neurological origin - migraines, neuralgia, also rheumatic, arthritic, and muscular
•   as an antiseptic ingredient, it supports other oils for colds, stimulates the body's defenses
•   soothes the effects of insect bites.
• It is used for massage, baths, compresses, and inhalations

Eugenol

• is a fragrance compound that is the basic component of clove oil
•   also found in cinnamon
•   it is a colorless, oily liquid with a pleasant pungent odor reminiscent of cloves
•   has disinfecting and anesthetic properties, which is used in dentistry to disinfect root canals and in a mixture with zinc oxide as dental cement
• - slightly toxic, has a stimulating effect - its abuse can lead to convulsions, liver damage, loss of consciousness, tremors, and heart palpitations
• - the concentrations used in dentistry and the perfume industry are many times lower than their toxicity threshold.

Rosehip oil

•   a thin, dark yellow to slightly brownish oil
•   made from rosehip seeds by extracting them in hexane
•   contains a large amount of unsaturated fatty acids
•   used for the care of all skin types, but especially recommended for sensitive, damaged skin (also due to excessive sunbathing), skin prone to cracking, dilated capillaries
•   inhibits the aging process, equally good for oily skin prone to acne
•   used in preparations for the care of damaged hair (strengthens elasticity)
•   has a protective and anti-inflammatory effect, brightens, tones and revives tired skin, smoothes wrinkles

Peppermint oil

• obtained from peppermint
•   it consists of menthol, which affects the cold receptors, causing a feeling of coolness; menthofuran, menthone, menthol acetate, menthol valerate, phellandrene, pinene, cineole, piperine, jasmonate, tannins (6-12%), flavonoids

  application:

•   irritable bowel syndrome (IBS) in the form of gastro-resistant capsules
•   in combination with cumin oil in dyspepsia
•   in tension headaches (topically)
•   externally in the form of liniments, liquids in combination with other ingredients with analgesic, antipruritic, and soothing properties

Balms

• plant substances, produced especially by the so-called balsam trees, which are solutions of resins in essential oils or turpentine, thanks to which they slowly solidify in the air
•   they have an aromatic smell, are insoluble in water, soluble in ethyl alcohol, and in ether
•   Canadian balsam, obtained from balsam fir found in Canada, is used in medicine and microscopy. - Peruvian balsam, a resin obtained from the balsam tree of the legume family, used in the perfumery and pharmaceutical industries
•   Balsam mecca from the balm tree is used for the production of varnishes, and cosmetics, in the food industry. Myrrh is obtained from the myrrh balsam plant

Resins

• amorphous polymers, natural or synthetic, thermoplastic, chemically or thermosetting, with relatively small molecules,
•   insoluble in water, liquid (viscous), semi-solid and solid. - natural resins (e.g. amber, rosin, mastic, acacia gum) are produced by the resin-bearing cells of many plants, containing a mixture of organic acids, alcohols, phenols, esters and hydrocarbons

•   harden in the air. Rosin and varnishes are obtained from natural resins.
•  the most important resins include phenyl-
•    formaldehyde resins, acrylic resins, polyester resins, resins
•    epoxy and epoxy acrylics, furan resins, resins
•    resins, silicone resins, and phenolic and aminoplastic resins
•  they are obtained in polymerization reactions
•  resins are used in the production of varnishes, adhesives, laminates,
•    ion exchangers, insulating materials, agents
•    impregnating agents, machine parts, everyday objects
•    use.
• Product quality control
• - vision systems

For visual control, devices are used that allow you to control:

• compliance of measurements with an accuracy of micrometers,
• detection of cracks, scratches, etc. in the external structure of the product,
• checking the filling level and presence of the product in the package,
• reading one- and two-dimensional barcodes,
• reading any printed and embossed texts,
• color recognition.

Microbiological purity

• most cosmetic preparations are an excellent medium for various types of microorganisms
•   visual evidence that cosmetic products have become contaminated or spoiled is organoleptic changes occurring in them
•   the most frequently observed are: phase separation, change in consistency, smell, color, or sediments appearing in solutions
•   in the case of pastes, mouthwashes, or lipsticks, a change in taste may also be noticeable

Unfavorable changes occurring under the influence of microorganisms can be inhibited by the use of appropriate cosmetic raw materials, including chemical compounds added to ensure the microbiological stability of the product, which are appropriate preservatives, some cosmetic ingredients that, in addition to their basic properties, have a greater or lesser bactericidal effect or support the action of preservatives

  microbiological tests consist in determining the total number of aerobic mesophilic microorganisms, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans: raw materials, finished cosmetics, and the criteria for microbiological purity of raw materials, and finished cosmetics, as well as the test method

The report on the microbiological purity of raw materials and the finished cosmetic should contain the following data: - identification data of the research laboratory - identification data of the test batch - method of collecting the sample for testing - testing method and method of its validation - start and end date of testing - test results - evaluation of results or their interpretation

• The microbiological specification applies to cosmetics in an intact, sealed package
• INCI International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients naming system.
• The basis for a system to standardize the nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients

  According to INCI, all raw materials used in the product must be calculated in such a way that the substances that are the most abundant in the product open the list, and those used in lower concentrations appear in further positions - the names used in INCI are a mixture of chemical, English and Latin names of plants. - dyes are numbered according to the "Color-Index-Number" or CI for short

  in the case of INCI dyes it allows some inaccuracy. If a given product is offered as a whole palette of colors - e.g. lipstick in 15 different colors - it is the manufacturer who can list all the dyes used in the entire series in the list of ingredients. Then he can add + or - before the name, which only means that a given color can be an ingredient of the product, but does not have to. Therefore, it is impossible to clearly state which dyes were used in a particular product

INCI International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients naming system

• not all dyes have a CI number, some have completely different names - fragrances used in cosmetics do not have to be declared at all. It is enough if the manufacturer calls them "Fragrance", "Perfume" or "Aroma" - the declaration of plant substances is also inaccurate or inaccurate
•   in the list of ingredients, only the name of the plant is given, not in what form (water, alcohol, oil, extract, etc.) the plant was used
•   It is also not known what parts of the plant were used

1,2-Dibromine-2, 4-dicyanobutane

Other names: Methyldibromo Glutaronitrile Use: preservative Category: organic halogen compound Characteristics: synthetic preservative, destroys proteins in cells. The permissible maximum concentration in sunscreen cosmetics is 0.025%, in other cosmetics it is 0.1%. Effect on the skin: adverse

1,2,3,4-Tetrahydro-6-Nitroquinoxaline

Application: dye, hair dye Characteristics: synthetic, not suitable for natural cosmetics Impact on the skin: Neutral

Abies Balsame

Other names: Balsam fir (pl) Balsamtanne (German) Application: active substance Category: vegetable substance Characteristics: vegetable, from fir needles, a substance used in the production of natural cosmetics. Essential oils and resin obtained from needles are used. It has a healing effect on irritations, wounds, and burns. Impact on the skin: beneficial

Abietyl Alcohol

Application: active substance, viscosity regulator Characteristics: synthetic, not suitable for natural cosmetics Impact on the skin: neutral.